It is a popular belief that this cake originated in the fishing ports, where 'hevva' referred to hauling the fish, and the criss cross markings on the top of this quickly made cake represented the nets. In the days when shoals of pilchards came inshore a man refered to as a 'huer' kept watch from a high vantage point. As soon as he sighted a shoal he alerted the fishermen and cries of 'hevva, hevva' went up ('hevva' being a shoal of fish) The boats put out and were directed to the shoal by signals from the huer.

The story is that as women and children would also be involved as soon as the fish were landed and so this quickly made and cooked flat cake would be made by the women in the meantime, thus ensuring food for the men when they returned. I am sceptical about this and think that possibly the word may have come from 'heth' the old Cornish word for barley, a flour commonly used in early days and much cheaper than wheat.

• 8 oz plain flour 2 oz lard 6 oz currants
• 2 oz margarine or butter
• 3 oz granulated sugar pinch of salt
• milk

Sift together the flour and salt. Rub in the fat and add the sugar and fruit, mix to a firm dough with milk. Roll out the dough in an oval shape and score the top lightly in a criss-cross pattern. Brush top with milk and bake for about 25 minutes at 190 C.

For more information on pilchards see my article 'Exporting fish from Newlyn' in the history section of this website, where you will find a recipe for marinated pilchards.

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