UNITITLED normally describes a work of art that an artist may feel reluctant to categorise or name for any number of reasons.
For a restaurant and a chef, it is a bold move but then chef Robert Wright at Untitled is a bold man. His motto: "real food for real people."
Robert's portfolio at his Penzance restaurant is vast and most notably includes head chef at the massively popular Gurnard's Head at Zennor, Fifteen London, Cranks, Odette's Notting Hill, Keith Floyd's Malsters Inn and many more.
The result is an unpretentious professional dining experience, capable of fusing the best of local and the best of continental with flair and appropriately, artistry. Flavours are distinct, clean, confident.
The atmospheric cloister-like arches of the Untitled lounge and bold primary colours against a white canvas provide a continental backdrop.
Tapas is served here, and with a plate of chorizo in red wine, octopus or tortilla with goat's cheese and a chilled glass of white, you could easily imagine yourself in Mediterranean climes.
Upstairs, the dining is more formal: a light-filled room with views out to the harbour and the sea beyond, decked out in bold prints and eclectic objects.
MM opted for Falmouth Bay scallops with black pudding, broad beans, thyme and cream; myself, the devilled lamb's kidneys (I can't resist a bit of offal).
Delicious kidneys on crisp toast, just the right amount of devil for my liking and sweet fat scallops atop generous chunks of black pudding made for an inspiring start.
For the main show, we had difficulty choosing. In the end MM went for the Megrim sole with crab butter, new pots and spring greens. I chose the pork braised in milk with red cabbage, carrot, fondant potato and wild garlic. The plate-sized Megrim was succulent and tasty, the crab butter adding a luxurious richness.
The pork fell apart at the touch of a fork and the veg combination was spot on. My only complaint would be that portions were big and I hate to leave food, but couldn't finish the shoulder. Saying that, I wasn't about to turn down a dessert.
Robert's partner, Helen, runs the Newlyn cheese shop and clearly has a hand in the British cheese board as a dessert option. A stunning collection of cheeses was being wheeled around as we left and I loitered briefly to hear her speak knowledgeably about each one.
Getting back to the sweet stuff however, as a keen forager and wild foodie, the elderflower fritters with Cornish strawberries and vanilla cream were a must for me, and MM selected crème caramel with cinnamon biscuit.
The fritters were my first and I won't forget them.
Greasy, crisp, light bunches of scented delight, the delicacy of the flowers reaching through the batter to complement the fruit and cream.
Service was professional and low-key with a smile. There is something a little different about the dining experience at Untitled.
An intimacy and a passion for good food in an artistic space yet the menu is brief (hurrah), simple and locally European.
Much of the new 'British revival' food has become over- complicated and rich, a little too much for my palate at times.
I feel that Mr Wright is confidently manoeuvring British food in his own direction.
And it works. Long may he defy the titles of food fashion and continue to forge his own foodie pathway by remaining Untitled.
Robert Wright's portfolio is vast and most notably includes head chef at the massively popular Gurnard's Head at Zennor, Fifteen London, Cranks, Odette's Notting Hill, Keith Floyd's Malsters Inn and many more.
article copyright THE CORNISHMAN